Chestnuts in an Algarve Autumn


Portuguese proverb………”It is Saint Martins Day, we’ll eat chestnuts and we’ll taste the wine”.


Before the potato was introduced into Europe, the chestnut was a major source of carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals in the local diet. However its position  was supplanted, it still plays a role in the seasonal Mediterranean diet that resonates today. Chefs will still incorporate these food items onto their menus via soups, pastas, purees, roasts, braises and desserts. Fine dining cooking still needs the influence of the peasants classical cooking of necessity. If you did not eat the chestnut throughout the winter months, you might starve.


But there is still nothing like being able to purchase freshly roasted chestnuts from a street vendor. Their sweet, smoky aroma is irrestible during November in the Algarve. Braziers burn and it is quite the social moment as customers wait their turn to receive their chestnuts wrapped up in a conically wrapped piece of magazine paper.


Chestnuts are synonymous with the Feast of Saint Martin in Portugal, as well as demarcating that fine, thin line line between Autumn and Winter. In southern Portugal, it is imperative to have the Winter seasons crop of wheat already planted and the pig slaughtered in order to make and preserve the chorizo curing during the cool Winter months. It is also a season of festivity because, right around now, one can taste the new seasons wine offerings. In Algarve, the preference is for aqua-pe or “foot wine”. Essentially, this is an alcohol made from pouring water over the dregs left over from the wine making process, much like an Italian grappa.


Classically speaking, kitchenwise, more morthern climates associate goose with the Feast of Saint Martin. Though in Portugal, one might be more inclined to see duck, which is what I used for my dish.


My continued celebration of the chestnut is borrowed from the classic Tuscan dish named “Castagnaccio” (made with chestnut flour). Basically, it is a chestnut dessert pancake comprised of chestnut flour, pine nuts, raisins, olive oil and rosemary. I love the use of herbs for dessert cooking. For my own personal interpretation of Mediterranean cooking, fresh herbs are a must and are used throughout the meal.


The finished baked item is usually accompanied by a dessert wine. In Italy, where much of my cooking experience comes from, this is VinSanto or Holy Wine. But hey……. hmmmm, this goes great with Port also. Eat and drink like a peasant.

Simple Deep Winter Peasant Cooking


This is the calm before the big storm. 18 inches of snow forecasted ….. maybe. Time to hunker down and plot a Spring kitchen garden. And eat enough carbs to shovel out the driveway.


Finally….it is near the back side of the chicken. This “minestra” is composed of pulled chicken, smoked prosciutto, celery root, rutabaga, herbs, beans and fregola.


Cornmeal for grits or polenta. I chose polenta. I love how coarse the grain has been milled….chunky, gritty, bits of this, bits of that. Polenta is the reason Italian grandmothers can beat you at arm-wrestling……..all that stirring. And all that stirring really needs is a little bit of attention and patience. Polenta is about as peasant as you can find. I also like the color. It seems just a little brighter. Hello, sunny day. I must try this for breakfast one of these snowy mornings. I’d go with honey and yoghurt.


Cornmeal mush with tomato sauce. This is perhaps as basic as it gets. Master how to make polenta correctly and you will be King of the Mountains. Peasant cooking is all about humble ingredients. The tomato sauce were from tomatos I grew. I made the polenta with water only. No milk, no cream but, in truth, I added a knob of butter and a little Parmigiana and folded it in. The polenta is creamy enough without the addition of dairy.


What is the difference between kinky and perverse? Besides brined, flattened and marinated boneless skinless chicken breast. The action of the brine allows the breast to remain moist during cooking. I pounded and flattened out the brined breast using the edge of a heavy blade. And then it sat in a marinade.


Kinky is when you use the feather of the chicken only. Perverse is when you use the entire  chicken. Swift thinking humor required here.


That’s what I’m talking about……juicy and moist from the brine I used. Wash it down by wallowing it in good olive oil. I ate some smashed carrots and parsnips in butter as an accompaniment. Those tears you see are actually tears of joy. A lot of flavor for little work. Maybe see you again in six months, Chicken Little.


Chestnuts……….open fire not included.


Castagnaccio or chestnut cake with pinenuts and raisins. Rosemary and olive oil too. A peasant’s dessert, if he were so fortunate.


This is my interpretation of the Tuscan classic. Thank you for looking at my story. Yes, please……more grappa. Forza Milan.